Words by Katy Hofstede-Smith
Fruit in savoury dishes is nothing new; some of the all-time classics perfectly marry meat and fruit, such as duck with cherries, pork with apple and the 1970s classic of chicken and apricots. While these are fantastic combinations, there are other, more modern alternatives that are definitely worth trying.
Stone fruits, pineapple, melons and mangoes hold up well with strong, salty flavours or spiced dishes, while more delicately flavoured fruits, such as pears, apples and cherries work well with more subtle dishes, adding another flavour profile. In some cultures, it is a given that fruit is included in savoury dishes.
Middle Eastern cooking, such as Moroccan tagines with prunes, preserved lemons, dried apricots or couscous flavoured with orange and raisins, or Iranian dishes with pomegranates scattered everywhere, dried cherries and sweet grapes mixed through grain salads, fully embraces the concept of savoury fruit and is an ideal place to start for those unsure how to approach it. In contrast, the delicately balanced yet powerful sauce of the Chinese sweet and sour is dependent on its fruit and just wouldn’t work without it. Make it at home and it will sing with the fresh sweetness of the fruit against the tartness of the vinegar.
Griddling stone fruit, such as peaches or plums, brings out a lovely savoury note. Brush them with olive oil infused with basil, rosemary or mint to add extra flavour and cook until clear char marks are visible. Serve grilled peaches with prosciutto, blue cheese and walnuts in a salad with green beans and almonds, or as a side to a heavily spiced roast pork belly. Mix charred plums with tomatoes, tarragon and ricotta or feta together with a vinaigrette dressing or use to make a tangy sauce to accompany Middle Eastern spiced roast duck.
Melons, pineapples and mangoes with their intense sweetness work well with salty or spicy dishes. Pineapple or mango salsas mixed with lots of herbs and spice work fantastically against strong flavours, such as Mexican or Indian. Try pairing pulled pork tacos with a spicy pineapple salsa, grilled pineapple and BBQ marinated chicken skewers, Thai fried rice with pineapple and prawns, caramelised mango with jerk chicken, spicy mango and coriander sauce with vegetarian rice paper rolls or served with cold meats and fish.
Watermelon, feta and mint salad is a terrific combination and great for hot days as is a watermelon gazpacho. Sweeter melons, such as cantaloupe and honeydew, work well with cured meats, crab, courgettes, cucumbers, olives and tangy vinaigrette.
Pears and apples, being less sweet, take on savoury flavours particularly well. Thinly sliced pears work well atop a crispy-based pizza with gorgonzola and rocket, lightly pickled as a side to a cheese board or in a typically Middle Eastern style paired with tomatoes in a simple sauce to serve alongside heavily spiced meat. Apples make an amazing soup teamed with another star, such as celeriac, butternut squash or curried parsnip, with their texture adding a rich smoothness to the dish. There are other ways to cook with apples, including curried apple salad with spiced chickpeas, pork and apple burgers, or apple and cheddar quiche.
Sharper fruits, such as rhubarb and gooseberry, work well with oily fish and pork dishes, blackberries alongside game is a delicious combination and blackcurrant is an amazing partner to salmon in a gravadlax or alongside fennel and dill in a salad. With so many different ways to incorporate fruit into main dishes, maybe it’s time to experiment with a few new modern classics in the making.