A crisp yet chewy meringue can sometimes be a tricky one to crack, so we asked Barbora Ormerod from The Devilled Egg Cookery School how to achieve the perfect bake.
“When we think of meringues, most of us imagine crunchy little treats topped with fruit and cream. Delicious. But the meringue is much more versatile than it may appear, and the technique behind it – a protein mesh reinforced with sugar – has become an important feature of modern cuisine.
The exact origins of the meringue are disputed. In very basic terms, the Swiss claim to have invented it, the Italians to have improved it and the French to have perfected it. Whoever made the discovery did so relatively recently, as the first written reference appears only in the 17th century.
The technique itself is all about protein. Egg whites are full of tightly coiled protein strands that can be unravelled by whisking. As the protein strands unfold they form new molecular bonds with one another, creating a sort of mesh, which traps the air bubbles introduced by whisking. Ordinarily, this structure would collapse after a few minutes, but adding sugar stabilises it long enough for cooking to make the structure permanent; that’s the trick.
There are three basic types of meringue, each based on the same principle, but tweaking its application to produce different results. Whisking over a bain-marie produces a tighter, crunchier meringue, whereas using hot sugar syrup creates a thick, glossy foam that can be manipulated for great decorative effect. In most situations, the basic method of whisking cold and then baking will give you the best of both worlds: a firm, crunchy exterior with a soft centre.
Five points for success when using this method:
- Thoroughly clean and dry your equipment before use. Avoid plastic utensils, as they can contain traces of fat that can make whisking more difficult.
- Use eggs that are a few days old. The protein strands in fresh eggs are more tightly coiled and harder to work with; it also helps if they’re at room temperature.
- Whisk until stiff, so the egg whites do not wobble when the bowl is shaken.
- Add sugar in increments. Once the granules are no longer visible, flavourings and colourings can be added (e.g. vanilla extract, rose water, cacao powder, nuts or spices).
- Bake them right away (110C for 35–60 minutes, depending on their size) until they peel easily off the baking paper.
You can do all sorts of things with the meringue before baking. Its beauty lies not only in its consistency, but in its versatility; it goes with just about anything.”