Across the West-Country, birds, deer and rabbits are being gathered from moors, fields and forests. Game season has begun.
Words by Vicki Mayrick, Etherington Meats
Unlike farmed meats that require human managed resources, Wild Game survives in natural spaces, living from an existing ecosystem that requires limited input. Herds and flocks are culled seasonally to keep numbers down – a routine part of countryside management – making Wild Game a fundamentally sustainable food source.
Game season begins on “The Glorious Twelfth” day of August; the official start of Britain’s 121-day-long grouse shooting season. Wood Pigeon is available year-round, whereas Game birds, including duck, goose and partridge are only obtainable from September to February. Pheasant and Woodcock have even shorter availability from early October through to the end of January.
Birds are best-bought whole, as their beak and claws are the greatest indicators of age, and therefore quality. In younger birds these will still be soft and pliable, in older birds both beak and claws will be thicker and harder. Young birds lend themselves to quick roasting, wrapped in waistcoats of bacon to keep them moist and served with seasonal sides such as chestnut mash, honey-roast parsnips and crisp apple chutneys. Fowl that’s more than a year old adds a unique opulence to curries and casseroles – partner with flavours of clove, chilli, cardamom and cumin for warming autumn dishes.
The Wild Deer season in the West-Country varies depending on the type and sex of deer hunted but is generally available from late summer to late winter. When choosing venison, look for meat with a rich, deep and consistent colour – this is an indicator of quality since discoloured spots can be a sign of poor handling or meat that’s past its prime. The different species of deer vary in flavour and texture, with Fallow being finer textured than the mighty Red, while the tiny Muntjac has the mildest flavour.
Venison loin, haunch and saddle should be cooked quickly on a high heat, to medium-rare for best results. Neck, shoulder and shank benefit from long cooking at low temperatures, with added fats such as pork belly, bacon or butter to achieve moist, melt-in-the-mouth meat.
Wild rabbits are available year-round but are at their best for eating between August and February, when they’re not breeding or feeding their young. Look for pink, plump meat – or if buying whole – choose an animal that has sharp, smooth claws and soft ears, as these are the indicators of youth and roastability. Although usually found baked in a pie or casseroled, rabbit meat is extremely versatile and can be substituted for chicken in various recipes. For something a little different, mince rabbit with pork belly and season with oriental spices for a delicious take on Thai burgers.