How do the professionals ensure that they get the best out of their butcher? We spoke to Chris Cleghorn, head chef at The Olive Tree in Bath (pictured with Paul Underwood of butchers Walter Rose & Son), to find out.
How do you ensure you make the most of your butcher?
For me good communication is key. As with every one that supplies someone, we want to deliver the best. Cuts of meat are very classical, but every chef has specific details they want to suit their dish or their workloads. So. I work closely with my butcher so he knows what I want and so that I’m always using what best in that season.
What, in your view, are the best quality cuts that your butcher offers, and how do you use them?
With any good butcher there are no bad cuts, just knowing how to cook them the right way. Depending on what time of year it is, my favourites change. In the winter I like using beef cheeks and beef fillet. In spring, the dishes we start to cook are lighter because the flavours are fresher. One of the key products is spring lamb, I like to use the lamb rump. Otherwise I use rose veal loin or chop, which goes with all spring ingredients.
How would you cook these cuts for your menu?
The lamb rump I like to cook on the BBQ, there’s no flavour like BBQ lamb. The veal loin we caramelise in a pan with butter and thyme
Are there any tips you can offer our readers to ensure they get the best from these seasonal cuts?
Make sure the lamb rump is firm, any sinew is removed from the flesh and that the skin is removed from the fat. There shouldn’t be too much fat on the rump. With the veal make sure you’re using rose veal, which any good quality butcher will have. Make sure that any sinew is removed to stop the meat seeming tough. The meat should have firm flesh, and be pink in colour.