One of the key seasonal ingredients just around now is asparagus; Chris Cleghorn, head chef at The Olive Tree, Bath, uses it whenever possible and has allowed us a brief peep through the kitchen door for an insight into how to get the best out of it.
The two main ways he prepares it are by steaming and on the barbecue. The best way, according to Chris, to maximise the asparagus’ flavour when steaming, is to slightly salt the water and also to add a touch of rapeseed oil to the asparagus once cooked (Chris uses rapeseed oil from close to Bath).
The second method, using the barbecue, is also a variant on steaming. Place the asparagus on the barbecue, colour lightly then sprinkle with a little water and close the lid. This allows it to steam slightly to cook the asparagus through.
At this time of year, Chris particularly enjoys combining asparagus with locally-picked wild garlic and morel mushrooms. The three flavours work in harmony with each other, and they also make a perfect match with local new season lamb.
His top tip to help the asparagus retain the best of its flavour throughout – whichever cooking method you use – is to make sure you leave the stalk intact until cooked: snapping off the stalks before you cook them will only cause them to lose flavour.