The edible pearls of our winter seas…
We asked Development Chef of Saunton Sands Hotel, Dez Turland, about the beauty of this wonderful winter seafood;
“Oysters are one of the world’s ultimate luxury foods, and don’t look much from the outside, but the flesh of these bivalved molluscs is wonderfully succulent and delicately flavoured, varying in colour from pale grey to beige, surrounded by a clear sweet and salty juice.
In Britain, the two main types available are ‘Natives’ and the less expensive ‘Pacific’ also known as Rock, which has a larger, longer shell.
In the UK, the old rule that Native oysters should only be eaten when there’s an ‘r’ in the month still holds true; so eat Native oysters from September to April. During the summer months they’re busy spawning, and their flesh becomes unpleasantly soft and milky, whereas Pacific oysters are usually available all year round.
Live, just-shucked oysters have the best flavour, allowing you to savour the delicate fresh salty undertones. Although they tend to be smaller than Pacific oysters, Natives are considered to taste superior, being slightly more complex in flavour. Oysters grow relatively slowly and can take up to 4 years to reach their full size while always developing in flavour.”
Preparing Oysters
“To prepare oysters, start by scrubbing the live oyster shells with a stiff brush under cold running water. Always discard any that are cracked or damaged. Any shells that aren’t tightly closed, or whose open shells do not snap shut when tapped should also be thrown away, as the oyster inside is more than likely dead.”
Shucking Oysters
“To shuck an oyster, wrap a tea towel or cloth thickly around your hand to protect it, then grip the oyster in the same hand, with the cupped shell down in the palm of your hand and the hinge pointing towards you.
Insert a shucking knife into the small gap in the hinge and twist it from side to side until the hinge breaks. Lever open the top shell, then run the knife gently along the inner edges of the top shell to free the oyster.
Using the knife, gently free the oyster from the muscle that binds it to the deep shell, to leave the oyster sitting in its juices.
Pick out any fragments of broken shell with the tip of the knife, but try not to spill any of the juice, as this contains beautiful clean flavours.”
Serving Suggestions
“There are many ways to serve these beautiful fresh oysters, either simply arranging them on a bed of ice and served raw, just as they are, or with fresh lemon juice, a shallot vinaigrette, or one or two drops of Tabasco. I also find that Vodka, Guinness or Sharps Wolf Rock Ale are natural partners for these wonderful molluscs.
To cook, top the oysters with brioche breadcrumbs, parsley and grated Cornish Gouda, and grill for 2–3 minutes; alternatively, pan-fry, poach or steam for 2–3 minutes.
Oysters also make a wonderful emulsion that compliments slow-cooked brisket by poaching them in their shell at 65C for 20 minutes, remove from their shell, allow to cool, then blitz with rapeseed oil and agar-agar until smooth.
Of course, there’s always the traditional baked steak, ale and oyster pie, or use to make angels on horseback: wrap in bacon, pancetta or Parma ham and roast for 6 minutes.”